Valentine's Visit with the Ranchiti

 It has obviously been a few months since Valentine's Day... What can I say? I'm a champion procrastinator! February 2020 was a month before COVID19 really caught ground here in the States, of course, so we were still free to roam well out of our immediate neighborhood. As I somehow got lucky and was not scheduled to work on Valentine's Day, I decided to go hop on the bike and go pay a long lost roadside friend a visit (and to be well out of town should the boss decided he needed me to come in after all). 

The ride: https://www.strava.com/activities/3100603539 (Alas, I forgot to turn the Garmin back on to record the final 11 miles)

'Go east while the weather is cooperative,' is one of my cycling mantra. I chanted it in my head as I caught the well chilled pre-dawn train and bus out to Harrah's Casino in Rincon, and took off up Valley Center Rd in the frigid air. It was such a cold morning that I was 2 miles up the Hwy 76 climb before I was warm enough to stop to pack away my winter mitten and jacket. (Mind, catching a front flat from a piece of broken glass as I entered the Valley Center Rd and Hwy 76 roundabout didn't help. The easy job of flat repair becomes rather much less than easy in the 38F cold dark air. I could hardly tell my thumbs from my elbows). 

But, all aggravations were forgotten 12 miles up the road when I turned off at a favorite spot just past Lake Henshaw to visit with my favorite view of the lake, fronted by the lonely branchy tree and with Hot Springs Mtn hovering in the background. It is one of my many private happy places around the county.

Traffic was light heading north on Hwy 79 through Mataguay, though there were many RVs and boat trailers caravaning east on San Felipe Rd. They were obviously traveling together as a few would end up turning out to wait for the others to catch up as they traveled east... with me inevitably playing leapfrog with the giants-with-many-blind-spots as we headed east toward the desert. It seems a bit amusing looking back on it now, but as that was going on I really did not enjoy it at all. Luckily all the leap-frogging giants continued on east on San Felipe Rd toward Salton Sea rather than turning onto Montezuma Valley Rd (S22) with me toward Ranchita. I looked back at them, took a deep breath of relief and immediately felt 10 lbs lighter. 

Oh, there was an unwelcome sight along San Felipe Rd just before the S22 turn off, though. As much as I dislike seeing all the road side trash that evidently came out of cars, I absolutely hate running into the few of them that came out of bicycles. 

Pick up after yourself, folks! (Naturally I put the trash into my backpack and didn't leave it around to further spread ill will toward people on bike. It's one of the perks of riding with a backpack, aside from being able to buy some locally made things along the road that I can't find at stores in the city. More on that later).

Stopping to check out Gravevine Canyon Rd's exit at Hwy S22. Might do a gravel ride thru there next winter.

The Montezuma Valley Market, the only general store with cold drinks, snacks, and a big port-a-toilet for miles, had a lot of beautiful handmade wooden chairs out for sale in front of the store. The friendly shopkeeper told me they get a lot of business from passing cyclists, and so they stock surprising things like the Stroopwafel and varieties of LUNA bars among the jars of local honey and avocado. There is even a well stocked mini-neighborhood library on the front porch with anything from children's books to the classics. The shopkeeper was exceedingly nice and welcoming. Make no mistake, though, this place is well guarded by a very large and hairy bouncer...

The Ranchiti (Ranchita Yeti) is the epitome of a strong and silent Valentine's Day date!

The only public restroom for miles in any direction. It's 11 miles from here to Borrego Springs Park HQ down in the desert, 10 or so to the nearest gas station in Warner Springs, and about 12 miles from Lake Henshaw Resort. So... weather your bladder is threatening to explode or not when you get here, go use the loo while you can or you'll regret it later up or down the road. 

Montezuma Valley Rd (S-22) from the crest a mile east of the Rancheti down to Borrego Springs is one of the most gorgeous paved descents in San Diego County. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Salton Sea, and all the nothingness in between. If you aren't in a hurry, though, there are many bucolic spots on the side of the road (and many trailheads) to stop and enjoy the view. If you are lucky you might even spot a bighorn sheep or two. I wish I had packed a binocular! 

Alas, I caught my second and third flats from, of all things, goat head thorns on the descent. Goat head punctures in February! Those things aren't usually around until late summer!  

Needless to say that changed my day's plan a bit. With only one spare tube and 2 1/2 CO2 cartridges left in my backpack, I cut off the descent at the Desert View lookout and headed back up earlier than I wanted. It's been years since I last had more than 1 flat tire on a single ride. The flat tire gods were obviously displeased with me, and I had better try to get back to town quick. 

Tho, not so quick as to not grab a few of these yummy local honey at the Montezuma Market on my 2nd pass of Ranchita. Hey, I'm not called Smorg for nothing!

A mile or so before the Hwy 79 turn off from San Felipe Rd I veered off the pavement again to pay the Warner Springs Ranch a visit. The keeper isn't around this time, so I didn't hang around for long. 

A couple of miles back on Hwy 79 I espied a pair of coyotes trotting along side the road not far from the curiously uncurious herd of cows, though, so I made the mistake of pulling off for a photo shoot. 

As soon as the tires hit the dirt shoulder they let off a low moan... A rear puncture, and a slow leak on the front! I put the last fresh spare tube on the rear tire. Alas, the patch kit had gone bad after years of remaining unused in the saddlebag. All the glue had dried out and it was completely useless. I had a canister and a half of 16g CO2 cartridge left. The half immediately went into the front tire, after which I time-trialed back to Lake Henshaw Resort where I attempted to call for a cab rescue. 

(Lake Henshaw Resort Restaurant was manned by a very friendly waitress who made some really good filly sandwich). 

A big booboo to the Yellow Cab operator who told me she'd have a cab out my way in 40 minutes and never called back again after an hour had past. I had to call again to find out that no cab was actually headed my way as I was out of service area! That was fairly aggravating in and of itself even without adding on the fact that the front tire was now completely flat, I had no spare tube or functioning patch kit left, and only a 16g cannister of CO2 left in my saddlebag. 

I had about 12 miles of wiggly country highways left between me and the nearest functioning bus station (for bus 388 to Escondido from Harrah's Casino). The final 7 miles on Hwy 76 and Valley Center Rd are all downhill. Before I get to the downhill, tho, I had a false flat thru La Jolla Reservation and a 2 miles climb to the Palomar shoulder where South Grade Rd branches off. I made sure both tires were clear of any debris, squeeze half a canister of CO2 into the front, and raced west like a bat out of hell. 

(A forlorn last look at Lake Henshaw before my escape run to Rincon)

Naturally, there was no time to take any more photo after that. I made it to the South Grade Rd turn off with the front tire still inflated enough for the downhill run into Rincon Valley and caught the next bus back to Escondido and then the train home. 

A highlight video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vT_FWttrtXY 

It was a much closer shave than I'd have liked... Five flat tires on a single ride! Much of that, I'm afraid, had to do with the tires being on the thin and old side of healthy. But it still proves the old saying that one can never be overly prepared. I thought it was overkill to have 4 spare tubes, 6 canisters of CO2, and a patch kit with me as I started the day of. In the end, I used them all and could have done with more! I put on a new set of 28mm Gatorskins after the ride, of course, and haven't had any more puncture since. 

Taakwish Pu'Shappila

In the old days, the Luiseno indians of San Diego's north county would look up at the high point of Palomar during rain storms and marvel at all the lightning sparks that Taakwish (Tahquitz), the fallen shaman of wondrous power, created as he pounded the bones of his victims on his favorite rocks atop the mountain range. Taakwish is notoriously man-hating and can't wait to beat up on people venturing up his mountain (Lily Rock on Tahquitz Peak), canyon, and his bone pounding places like the highest prominence of the Palomar range.

  

The base of High Point TT (8SO5) is quite sandy.

Getting to the first steep bit on High Point TT.

It wasn't the legend of Tahquitz that deterred me for so long before attempting to reach the high point of Palomar Mountain by bike, however, but the prospect of actually destroying my road bike on a rough people-less trail with nary a chance of being in cellphone reception range for a mayday call in mountain lion country. Having picked up a sturdier Fuji Finest with clearance for bigger tires and a good pair of disc brakes, and scoring a willing riding partner changed things, and one morning in April I cycled up to Aguanga where my partner, Mike, was waiting, and together we set off up High Point Truck Trail (8SO5) to pick a fight with the devil. 

Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/2270458456

Hike-a-bike stretch where High Point TT runs into Oak Grove TT.

The gate at the top of Oak Grove TT.

High Point Truck Trail, I must say, doesn't have much of a soft spot for rigid road bike running any tire smaller than 30mm. I was running a pair of moderately threaded 28mm, and had quite a bike handling work out on the many really soft sandy stretches at the bottom of the climb, and then again when the road gets rocky, rutty, and quite extremely pitchy as we stopped half-way up to have a look at Oak Grove TT to see if it would make a good alternative escape route from the top. For the record, it doesn't!

Rather than burning off as the day wore on, the cloud just sat on the road, wetting down the dirt.

A peek at Palomar High Point Lookout Tower.

We hiked the bike as much as we rode the last mile to the intersection with Palomar Divide TT (9SO7). My partner had road cycling cleats on, and the wet dirt was wreaking havoc on his ability to clip on and off his pedals. It was quite a lesson to me, as I had never used road clipless system (I went from riding flat pedals to mtb spd system). This proved to be quite problematic since his feet weren't secure on the pedals, and made riding pretty hazardous. With the lateness of our arrival to the Palomar HP saddle, we opted out of going up another mile and a bit to tag the actual top in order to start our descent as soon as possible.

The junction of Palomar Divide TT (9SO7) and High Point TT (8SO5).

Palomar Divide TT put up a lot of fight to slow our escape from Tahquitz's favorite bone grinder. The top part of the road is really rough and full of pebbles that made it almost impossible to stay on a good descending line. The decline is also interrupted by more than a few sudden uphill spikes that are both too loose and steep to ride up. Heck, there are even sandy stretches that preserve quite a few wild spoors - some more concerning than others. For a good couple of miles we found ourselves reverse-tracing footprints of a mountain lion and two cubs... It was enough to grow eyes out the back of our heads and almost hallucinating big cats peeking out from every boulder and bush along the road.

A mommy mountain lion and two cubs went uphill on this road not long ago.

Looking back at the white domes of Palomar Observatory.

We caught some fantastic views of Mendenhall Valley, San Jose del Valle, and Lake Henshaw on the descent (especially once we made it to the old pavement bit below the old Ware Mine. I'm afraid I had accidentally knocked the GoPro downward during the climb up Highpoint TT, and am left with pretty useless footage of a lot of dirt and rut and not much else. As I was counting on getting some good stills from the video, I didn't stop to take many photograph with my camera on our way down the rough road. I guess this calls for a redo ride on the other side of summer!

Looking over the ridge to Valle de San Jose and Lake Henshaw.

I must say, the old pavement on the lower 6 miles or so of Palomar Divide TT is really no picnic to ride as it isn't maintained and is quite chopped up in places and full of debris in others. It's still a big relief from the deep sand and rough pebbles of the upper section, however. I don't know if my road bike would have survived much more of the latter.

The oldly paved lower slope of Palomar Divide Truck Trail.

We somehow made it down to Hwy 79 in one piece (with one minor crash each, sort of as sacrifice to Tahquitz for having invaded his territory on such unsuitable manpowered machines. It was quite a long morning of rough-road riding in quite wetter weather than anticipated (no rain perse, but riding into a cloud that just sat still was still quite a soaking experience). Hopefully I'll get to challenge Tahquitz for a rematch soon... on a bit bigger tires and maybe a slightly bigger cassette, too.

Thanks very much to my riding pal Spinmotion for hanging in there with me both on and off the bike!

Moreno Valley - San Jacinto Wildlife Refuge - Jack Rabbit Trail

One clear day late last autumn I hopped on my bike and headed out to the seemingly empty land between Moreno Valley and San Jacinto, partly to see if the lonely palm tree I could see from the distance was really as lonely as it seemed from afar.

I was spending too much time in the dullest part of Moreno Valley, and it was a relief to escape the confine of the city straight into nothingness as the busy and straight Alessandro Blvd becomes a less-traveled 2 laner and even developed a bend as its' name changes to Theodore Rd. Straying off the main road just then I turned right onto the old Davis Rd, whose cracky pavement soon gave way to a relatively well-graded packed dirt after a gate. No more roars of motor vehicles or city trash blowing about. Just chirpy brushes full of birds that don't seem to realize that they would have gone entirely undetected by me if only they would quit chirping.

After the 2nd car gate Davis Rd becomes indecisive about whether it wants to remain a dirt lane or become a paved one, and short stretches of tarmac comes and goes between the horse ranches. There was really not much to see until I descended a little hill to find the entrance to San Jacinto Wildlife Preserve. It is quite a little oasis in the convincingly parched valley.

I suspect that the place looks quite different now and there might even be water in the basin to the east of the preserve, marked on the maps as 'Mystic Lake'. When I rolled thru there last December, though, nary a drop of water was to be found outside the preserve.

I spent an hour or so happily slow-spinning the preserve trails, stalking water birds and the many hawks and kestrels patrolling the area. It was so nice and peaceful (mostly for me, but probably not much for the fish and little squirrels trying to sneak around under the gaze of all those hungry raptors!).

As the day wore on, though, I rolled back out to the main road and took the cattle-fields-lined Bridge Rd short cut from Ramona Expressway to Gilman Springs Rd in the vain hope of espying some cool game birds along the way, but the only creatures that came out to greet me were a bunch of curious cows munching leisurely on their lunch.

The turn off onto the narrow old Jack Rabbit Trail from Gilman Springs Rd is unmarked. This used to be the main (or rather, the one and only) connection between Beaumont and Moreno Valley before Highway 60 was built. It was practically abandoned once the main highway opened in 1936 (especially once the 60 was upgraded to a freeway in 1956), and is now quite in disrepair with broken up pavement and a few landslid spots toward the crest.

There is only one house along the lonely lane, and its owner came riding down the slope on his touring bike just as I got 1/3 of the way up it. We had a chat and I went on to tag the north end of the trail (Jack Rabbit Trail now ends on Hwy 60, not quite a thru road by bike) before coming back up to meet him again near the crest. His name is Dave Major and he is riding across the States with his daughter Martie, a few bits of it at a time. How cool is that, ay??



Anyhow, I survived the bumpy descent back to Gilman Springs and back to town just before the evening rush hours commenced. That was quite a relief (all the tire marks the many cars left on Gilman Springs from veering unexpectedly onto the narrow road shoulder were getting on my nerves quite a bit). It was quite a nice little day ride to perk up my miserable year in Moreno Valley. That taught me a lesson... there are wonderful views to see even in hell, you just have to hop onto the bike and go find them!

Box Springs Mountain's M Trail By Road Bike

I'm afraid I didn't get in many exploration rides in 2016, which will likely go down as the most terrible year I've had in a long while. But, but there were a few saving graces. One of them was the ride up Box Springs Mountain up in Moreno Valley!

Box Springs Mtn from Cottonwood Ave in Moreno Valley

Box Springs Mtn from Aqueduct Bike Trail in Moreno Valley.

Box Springs Mountain is pretty hard to miss for anyone passing through Moreno Valley on the 215 or the 60 freeways. It is the highest of the low hills south of San Bernardino Mountains, sports three separate sets of radio communication antennae along its peaks, and is marked with a large white letter 'M' on the Moreno Valley facing slope, and a big yellow letter 'C' on the northwestern flank above University of California - Riverside. Both big letters are favorite hiking destinations for the locals, of course!

I set out rather late one afternoon up Pigeon Pass Rd from Moreno Valley, spinning up the gentle climb into Spring Hills, the rural neighborhood of narrow lanes lined with farms, llamas, and patrolled by a rather large herd of wild burros. These four-legged cuties won't really approach you, but they are quite used to seeing humans and cars, so they'll let you get pretty close before moving off... and on... and off. It must have taken me 10 minutes to move 100 yrds when I ran into them just before Box Springs Mtn Rd branches off from Pigeon Pass Rd because they kept crossing the road back and forth in a weird attempt to both look at and get away from me at the same time.

Soon after the Box Springs Mtn Rd & Pigeon Pass Rd intersection pavement ends just as the slope pitches up to quite a ramp up the hard left-hand turn that had me up to my 34x28 gear ratio by the time it leveled off. This is a good bit of the road to remember on the way down, especially on my 25 mm road slick tires.

After that first ramp the climbing was pretty gentle (nothing steeper than 5% grade) and there was quite a bit of view to see down into Riverside and Loma Linda. After a mile or so I passed the Box Springs Mountain Park entrance where the road turns into a trail (it's still a wide fire road, but is closed to motorized vehicles). There isn't much there aside from the dirt parking lot, a few picnic tables, trash bins and a port-a-toilet.

Past the parking lot I rolled through the beautiful (and moderately flat) pasture and enjoyed the wild field so much I almost came off the bike when the road's packed dirt turned into moderately mushy sand for about 30 yds (it isn't exactly easy to see in the late afternoon light), after which the gradient picked up again on the left turn toward the first set of antennae. I think it's the complex atop the big C above UCR campus. It's still gentle enough for my 34x30 gear to cope with, until just after the 2nd encounter with Hidden Spring Trail where the road (now really just a narrow lane) makes a hard left turn into a huge set of ruts and a washed out 20% grade ramp. I don't know how I'd do with a full suspension mtb, but I'm no Martyn Ashton or Chris Akrigg on a rigid road bike and there was no way I'd have made it up that hideous section of the trail rubber-side-down. Heck, it was hard going even portaging the bike up to the switchbacks above!

Luckily that proved to be the only unrideable (at least by road bike) portion of the trail for me. There was another steep ramp (with some loose-ish sandy section leading to it) up to the next set of antennae, but it was still rideable. The road becomes much more trail-y and rough after that with the sharp turn-y descent and climb to the last antenna; the one directly above the big M.

Alas, the antennae complex was completely fenced in and it was too late in the day for me to venture down onto the .6 mile single track trail that leads around the complex to the actual M (I wanted to descend past all the sandy sections of the trail before it got too dark), so I just hang around on top and drank in the view for a bit. It was hard earned and beautiful!

Descending Box Springs Mtn Trail on a rigid road bike with dual pivot brakes and running 25 mm road slick tires was, I'm afraid, quite less than fun. I'm an above-average bike handler, and it took all of my skills and a lot of luck to make it back down to the flat-ish meadow path to the parking lot with all my bones intact. No matter how hard on the brakes you descend, you'll still carry too much speed down that trail to always be able to stay on a good descending line through all the curves - all the while hoping that the tires wouldn't go poof on you from all the skidding. Then, of course, there were the sandy sections and the ruts that you'd have to end up bunny hopping over simply because there is no way you can stop the bike with the dual pivot brakes and the no-tread tires... hoping that the landing on the other side of the ruts is firm enough for you to keep the bike under control. I think I must have aged 10 years in just 3 miles of riding!

It was as awesome a time as I'd ever had on a bicycle, mind you, but the next time I brave Box Springs Mtn, it'll be on either a mountain bike or a proper cyclocross bike!

Here is a short video clip of the Smorgmobile 1.2's last adventure: