Riding the rural roads during wild fire season

California's wild fires season has extended a lot over the last decade or so. It used to be just a few months long from mid-summer to late fall (generally from September to early November). Now, it's almost all year long. 

As much as I love riding my bike on lonely rural roads out in the mountains east of town, I generally avoid it during the worst of the fire season (the old August - November time frame) even when there is no fire burning in the area. The summer heat and the mountain horse flies have both proven themselves more persistent than me. 

Even on rare days when I'm both off work and feeling strangely heat-resistant, though, there are things to consider and check on before I head east away from town this time of year:

Smoke plume from the Lilac Fire as seen from central Vista in 2018. 

1. Santa Ana Wind Event: If there is one going on, I stay in town and away from the mountain roads. Period. I made the mistake of heading out to Warner Springs during an early Santa Ana event once, early in my cycling career and will never forget how murderous having that hideous gale as the crosswind on the narrow shoulder-less Hwy 79 could be. I was blown completely off the pavement 5 times between the intersections of San Felipe Rd and Hwy 76. Rare are the days when I love riding the 76 with all its casino and boat trailers and hay and horse trailers traffic... but it runs east-west rather than north-south, so the crosswind became a tailwind then, and I wasn't about to get killed every time I was passed by a big truck.  

2. Check wild fire status before heading out (and if it is possible to re-check during the ride, do). Generally the fires around here burn west... though sometimes they regress a bit back east with the morning onshore wind. Make sure you have secondary escape route if your main route gets (or is in danger of getting) cut off by a fire or its smoke... And, you definitely don't want to be riding on the roads the locals will be using to evacuate for a live fire. 

3. Really... if the Santa Ana Wind is in town, and there's a fire burning within 15 miles of your route, go a different way or just stay in town or on the coast. 

4. If you are one of those stubborn mules on wheels that will go no matter what (shame on you, and doubly so if you end up having to call for help and thereby endangering your rescuers), make sure your cellphone is all charged up (tho... out in the county you may not have cell reception), carry more than plenty of water with you, and have a print out map of the area you will be in. No cell service usually also means no internet... and the Garmin will only be able tell you the uploaded route, but maybe not the possible escape routes. Definitely also be sure someone knows your exact route and when to expect you back. 

5. But, really... don't be an idiot. When the Santa Ana Wind is in town... whether there is a fire burning nearby or not, stay in town or on the coast. Don't head east of town!

Valentine's Visit with the Ranchiti

 It has obviously been a few months since Valentine's Day... What can I say? I'm a champion procrastinator! February 2020 was a month before COVID19 really caught ground here in the States, of course, so we were still free to roam well out of our immediate neighborhood. As I somehow got lucky and was not scheduled to work on Valentine's Day, I decided to go hop on the bike and go pay a long lost roadside friend a visit (and to be well out of town should the boss decided he needed me to come in after all). 

The ride: https://www.strava.com/activities/3100603539 (Alas, I forgot to turn the Garmin back on to record the final 11 miles)

'Go east while the weather is cooperative,' is one of my cycling mantra. I chanted it in my head as I caught the well chilled pre-dawn train and bus out to Harrah's Casino in Rincon, and took off up Valley Center Rd in the frigid air. It was such a cold morning that I was 2 miles up the Hwy 76 climb before I was warm enough to stop to pack away my winter mitten and jacket. (Mind, catching a front flat from a piece of broken glass as I entered the Valley Center Rd and Hwy 76 roundabout didn't help. The easy job of flat repair becomes rather much less than easy in the 38F cold dark air. I could hardly tell my thumbs from my elbows). 

But, all aggravations were forgotten 12 miles up the road when I turned off at a favorite spot just past Lake Henshaw to visit with my favorite view of the lake, fronted by the lonely branchy tree and with Hot Springs Mtn hovering in the background. It is one of my many private happy places around the county.

Traffic was light heading north on Hwy 79 through Mataguay, though there were many RVs and boat trailers caravaning east on San Felipe Rd. They were obviously traveling together as a few would end up turning out to wait for the others to catch up as they traveled east... with me inevitably playing leapfrog with the giants-with-many-blind-spots as we headed east toward the desert. It seems a bit amusing looking back on it now, but as that was going on I really did not enjoy it at all. Luckily all the leap-frogging giants continued on east on San Felipe Rd toward Salton Sea rather than turning onto Montezuma Valley Rd (S22) with me toward Ranchita. I looked back at them, took a deep breath of relief and immediately felt 10 lbs lighter. 

Oh, there was an unwelcome sight along San Felipe Rd just before the S22 turn off, though. As much as I dislike seeing all the road side trash that evidently came out of cars, I absolutely hate running into the few of them that came out of bicycles. 

Pick up after yourself, folks! (Naturally I put the trash into my backpack and didn't leave it around to further spread ill will toward people on bike. It's one of the perks of riding with a backpack, aside from being able to buy some locally made things along the road that I can't find at stores in the city. More on that later).

Stopping to check out Gravevine Canyon Rd's exit at Hwy S22. Might do a gravel ride thru there next winter.

The Montezuma Valley Market, the only general store with cold drinks, snacks, and a big port-a-toilet for miles, had a lot of beautiful handmade wooden chairs out for sale in front of the store. The friendly shopkeeper told me they get a lot of business from passing cyclists, and so they stock surprising things like the Stroopwafel and varieties of LUNA bars among the jars of local honey and avocado. There is even a well stocked mini-neighborhood library on the front porch with anything from children's books to the classics. The shopkeeper was exceedingly nice and welcoming. Make no mistake, though, this place is well guarded by a very large and hairy bouncer...

The Ranchiti (Ranchita Yeti) is the epitome of a strong and silent Valentine's Day date!

The only public restroom for miles in any direction. It's 11 miles from here to Borrego Springs Park HQ down in the desert, 10 or so to the nearest gas station in Warner Springs, and about 12 miles from Lake Henshaw Resort. So... weather your bladder is threatening to explode or not when you get here, go use the loo while you can or you'll regret it later up or down the road. 

Montezuma Valley Rd (S-22) from the crest a mile east of the Rancheti down to Borrego Springs is one of the most gorgeous paved descents in San Diego County. On a clear day you can see all the way to the Salton Sea, and all the nothingness in between. If you aren't in a hurry, though, there are many bucolic spots on the side of the road (and many trailheads) to stop and enjoy the view. If you are lucky you might even spot a bighorn sheep or two. I wish I had packed a binocular! 

Alas, I caught my second and third flats from, of all things, goat head thorns on the descent. Goat head punctures in February! Those things aren't usually around until late summer!  

Needless to say that changed my day's plan a bit. With only one spare tube and 2 1/2 CO2 cartridges left in my backpack, I cut off the descent at the Desert View lookout and headed back up earlier than I wanted. It's been years since I last had more than 1 flat tire on a single ride. The flat tire gods were obviously displeased with me, and I had better try to get back to town quick. 

Tho, not so quick as to not grab a few of these yummy local honey at the Montezuma Market on my 2nd pass of Ranchita. Hey, I'm not called Smorg for nothing!

A mile or so before the Hwy 79 turn off from San Felipe Rd I veered off the pavement again to pay the Warner Springs Ranch a visit. The keeper isn't around this time, so I didn't hang around for long. 

A couple of miles back on Hwy 79 I espied a pair of coyotes trotting along side the road not far from the curiously uncurious herd of cows, though, so I made the mistake of pulling off for a photo shoot. 

As soon as the tires hit the dirt shoulder they let off a low moan... A rear puncture, and a slow leak on the front! I put the last fresh spare tube on the rear tire. Alas, the patch kit had gone bad after years of remaining unused in the saddlebag. All the glue had dried out and it was completely useless. I had a canister and a half of 16g CO2 cartridge left. The half immediately went into the front tire, after which I time-trialed back to Lake Henshaw Resort where I attempted to call for a cab rescue. 

(Lake Henshaw Resort Restaurant was manned by a very friendly waitress who made some really good filly sandwich). 

A big booboo to the Yellow Cab operator who told me she'd have a cab out my way in 40 minutes and never called back again after an hour had past. I had to call again to find out that no cab was actually headed my way as I was out of service area! That was fairly aggravating in and of itself even without adding on the fact that the front tire was now completely flat, I had no spare tube or functioning patch kit left, and only a 16g cannister of CO2 left in my saddlebag. 

I had about 12 miles of wiggly country highways left between me and the nearest functioning bus station (for bus 388 to Escondido from Harrah's Casino). The final 7 miles on Hwy 76 and Valley Center Rd are all downhill. Before I get to the downhill, tho, I had a false flat thru La Jolla Reservation and a 2 miles climb to the Palomar shoulder where South Grade Rd branches off. I made sure both tires were clear of any debris, squeeze half a canister of CO2 into the front, and raced west like a bat out of hell. 

(A forlorn last look at Lake Henshaw before my escape run to Rincon)

Naturally, there was no time to take any more photo after that. I made it to the South Grade Rd turn off with the front tire still inflated enough for the downhill run into Rincon Valley and caught the next bus back to Escondido and then the train home. 

A highlight video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vT_FWttrtXY 

It was a much closer shave than I'd have liked... Five flat tires on a single ride! Much of that, I'm afraid, had to do with the tires being on the thin and old side of healthy. But it still proves the old saying that one can never be overly prepared. I thought it was overkill to have 4 spare tubes, 6 canisters of CO2, and a patch kit with me as I started the day of. In the end, I used them all and could have done with more! I put on a new set of 28mm Gatorskins after the ride, of course, and haven't had any more puncture since. 

San Marcos' Little Mt Whitney

The skyline of San Marcos, CA is dominated by the Cerro de las Posas mountain range of which Mt Whitney (1729 ft) is its tallest prominence. Unlike many other prominent hills around town, there are several paved ways to the top of Mt Whitney, though some are less accessible than others. Choosing your way up, however, is an exercise in poison picking. Mt Whitney charges high metabolic price for the view she gives from the top.

Starting from the NE end of the range, the major route up Mt Whitney is on the back side of California State University - San Marcos (CSSM) via La Moree, Coronado Hills Dr, and Washingtonia Dr. The climbing begins a block or so south Coronado Hills Rd at the junction with Via del Campo. From bottom to top is 2 miles long at 8.3% average grade. The first 0.6 mile on Coronado Hills Dr is the most brutal, however, with an opening kick at 17% grade before dropping off to a near constant 15% for half a mile to the Washingtonia Dr turn off. Washingtonia is a bit of a roller until the private drive car gate (hikers and bicycles can go around), after which it only goes up and up all the way to the top. Don't begrudge the car gate at the last level off (Vallecitos Water District overlook) that you have to dismount and hike a bike thru. It's the only 'resting' spot before the sustained 14% grade for 1/4 mile to the tower. Also, remember this gate on your descent... and make sure you can stop the bike without crashing onto it!

Coronado Hills Dr

If you don't mind roughing it for a hard dirt stretch, another legit way up little Mt Whitney is to go up either San Elijo Rd or S Twin Oaks Valley Rd to the Ridgeline Trailhead staging area traffic light at Double Peak Elementary School. Go thru the school parking lot to pick up the dirt bit of Attebury Rd and continue on it to Washingtonia Dr. I prefer coming at it from San Elijo Rd rather than S Twin Oaks because you get more elevation gain from the south side, and you don't have to beg for green light to cross the road to get to Double Peak School. This is the first climb on this video:


(Video is of the Mt Whitney bit on my usual Friday morning assaults on Mt Whitney and her next door neighbor, Double Peak).

Aside from these two fairly open-access routes, there are a couple more private and steep ones whose accessibility can vary a bit from time to time (sometimes bikes and hikers are quite welcome on them, sometimes not so much). The Bela Vita Way route to connect to Attebury Rd to Washingtonia is listed on the City of San Marcos trails project map, though currently it is still strictly private. At 1.8 miles and 9.3% average grade, this is the hardest way to the top on paper (though in practice I don't think it is).

Bela Vita Way is guarded by two gates; the bottom one at S Village Dr was recently extended to cut off the dirt trail access, and the top one in the middle of a 15% grade ramp was fortified a bit, so this way may not stay bike/hike-able for long. With all the gates and the lack of other houses except for the manor overlooking the winery, there is literally no car traffic on this lonely paved lane... except for the winery owner and his couple of neighbors. Here is a video I took a while back (before the gates were extended and fortified), descending from Mt Whitney tower to S Village Dr via Attebury Dr and Bela Vita Way.



The goriest route up to Mt Whitney, however, is from the even less accessible Crestwind Dr on the SE side by Harmony Grove Village. It is about 2.8 miles long at a deceptively mellow 8.3% average gradient. Make no mistake, though, the single digit average grade is due to the little downhill bits in the lower part of the climb. The long uphill bits from Bresa de Lomas on up are all in the teens, with maximum grade in the 20s on the concrete and paved portion of Crestwind Dr (how deep into the 20s depends a bit on how you take the curves, and whether you go up it in a straight line or not).

Bresa de Lomas opening ramp.

The steepie switchback at the bottom of Crestwind Dr.

This route requires strong bike handling skills as well as strong legs and lungs (and at least a 30 cog in your cassette). After the two-houses saddle atop the gory switchback bottom of Crestwind Dr, the road turns into a rutty and pebbly dirt lane with a little dip followed by a sustained 15% grade ramp that gets even steeper once it turns the corner and becomes a concrete wall. Get across that wall to the tarmac, and you still have two long curves of steepness with spots that ventures north of the 20% grade mark to cope with before you get to the houses and false flat where you can breathe a bit before turning steeply up again onto Washingtonia Dr.

Mt Whitney radio tower

No matter which way you choose, though, San Marcos' little Mt Whitney is a gem with its rustic rural and car-less neighborhoods compared to the more well known Double Peak on the other side of S Twin Oaks Valley/San Elijo Rd. Do beware of cracks and potholes, aside from suicidal squirrels and rabbits on your descent... and, please, pack out what you pack in. Be nice to everyone, ride carefully around blind curves, and leave no trace of you behind! 

For New Riders: Essential Bike Accessories

An interesting side-effect to the ongoing COVID19 pandemic is the increased interest in cycling for exercise and for transport (a lot of people are working from home or working reduced hours... or are out of work altogether, and have surplus spare time which they would like to spend outdoor at a distance from other people). Bike shops all around town are selling bikes and accessories like hot cakes, and there are weeks long waiting list to get any repair done.

But, what else, aside from a bicycle and a helmet, do you need to have on your bike before hopping on and pushing off for a ride?

Short answer: head and rear lights, water bottle, and a saddle bag full of roadside repair gear.


Water bottle or Camelbak backpack.
Most bikes (aside from many full suspension mountain bikes) come with at least one set of screws on the downtube and/or seattube for water bottle cage attachment. Be sure to get at least a bottle cage attached to your bike before leaving the bike shop with your new ride! Even if you aren't going long distance, it's better to have some water handy than not.

Full suspension mountain bikes these days tend to not have any bottle cage attachment simply because most mountain bikers ride with a Camelbak backpack that holds their water as well as trail-side repair tools.

Head and tail lights.
Even on short rides during the day when you expect to be back home well before dark, it is always handy to have lights on your bike. Here in sunny California, the bright and sunny days tend to make us bicyclists very invisible when passing through tree shades and dark underpasses. The brighter the sun, the darker the shades (and the longer time it takes for drivers' eyes to adjust when moving from one to the other).

Go for good quality lights that are very bright, with good batteries life and sturdiness (especially when wet). They are worth the extra cost. I've been through many lights since my first ride in 2012. Nowadays I'll swear by the Cygolite headlight (have had the Metro 500 on my bike for 4 yrs now, and it's still going strong). I like to turn the headlight on flashing mode during the day when approaching places where I think a driver waiting (or approaching) on the right might not see me very well before pulling out, and when I have to ride closer to parallel parked cars than I'd like. I'm always far enough away from the doors to not be hit should they suddenly open, but I might instinctively swerve left if one does, and that might be the last move I ever get to make... depending on traffic condition. So, anything to improve my chances of those doors staying nice and shut until I've passed, I'll do.

Unless I'm riding in the desert in the light of day, I almost always keep my rear light on in flashing mode to ensure that I am visible to drivers when riding in shaded area or thru an underpass.

A saddle bag and road-side repair gear.

My adventure trip saddlebag is almost a mini-bike-shop.

Even tubeless tires aren't immune to flatting! It's always good to have the tools handy just in case. Since I go out on solo adventure rides out in the mountains a lot, my saddlebag is almost a mini-bike shop (and even backed up by a little backpack containing more spare tubes, food, and first-aid kit).

My commuter saddlebag.

My commuting saddlebag for riding in the city, on the other hand, is more to the point. What you really must have with you are:
- Spare inner tube that fits your tires (even if you are running tubeless tires, if those get flat and won't reseal itself, you'll still need to put a tube in to get home).
- A pair of tire irons/levers.
- A way of inflating the tire (a frame pump or a CO2 system). I use CO2 for roadside inflation, that constitutes the little green valve/nozzle and the 16g CO2 cannisters. If you use CO2, remember that the gas is lighter than air and will leak out faster so you tire will go flat again within a day or two. So, after inflating with CO2, remember to let the gas out of your tire when you get home, and re-inflate again with proper air pump.
- A multi-tool that is equipped with a chain tool (even if you don't know how to use it to break and reattach the chain, someone else may come riding along who does, and they would still need the tool).
- Throw a patch kit in there, while you're at it. They come the size of a nickle these days, and they are dead useful when you get more than one flat on a ride.

If you ride in the city, and plan on stopping at shops or restaurants, a good bike lock is a must.

I'm a big believer in riding with a rear-view mirror, preferably attached to either the helmet or your glasses (so you only have to turn your head a little to see the entire road behind you.. without having to move the handlebar or to take the eyes completely off the road ahead). Not only are they great for letting you know what speedy drivers are approaching from the back, they also detect those stealthy and silent fellow cyclists who would pass within inches of you without ever saying a word (don't be that guy. Give a warning!).

Also, if you are in the city, get a really sturdy lock that is long enough to lock both the frame and the wheels of your bike to a sturdy pole/bike rack. Shell out the buck for it. It's worth not having to buy another bike and all the accessories all over again!

Taakwish Pu'Shappila

In the old days, the Luiseno indians of San Diego's north county would look up at the high point of Palomar during rain storms and marvel at all the lightning sparks that Taakwish (Tahquitz), the fallen shaman of wondrous power, created as he pounded the bones of his victims on his favorite rocks atop the mountain range. Taakwish is notoriously man-hating and can't wait to beat up on people venturing up his mountain (Lily Rock on Tahquitz Peak), canyon, and his bone pounding places like the highest prominence of the Palomar range.

  

The base of High Point TT (8SO5) is quite sandy.

Getting to the first steep bit on High Point TT.

It wasn't the legend of Tahquitz that deterred me for so long before attempting to reach the high point of Palomar Mountain by bike, however, but the prospect of actually destroying my road bike on a rough people-less trail with nary a chance of being in cellphone reception range for a mayday call in mountain lion country. Having picked up a sturdier Fuji Finest with clearance for bigger tires and a good pair of disc brakes, and scoring a willing riding partner changed things, and one morning in April I cycled up to Aguanga where my partner, Mike, was waiting, and together we set off up High Point Truck Trail (8SO5) to pick a fight with the devil. 

Route: https://www.strava.com/activities/2270458456

Hike-a-bike stretch where High Point TT runs into Oak Grove TT.

The gate at the top of Oak Grove TT.

High Point Truck Trail, I must say, doesn't have much of a soft spot for rigid road bike running any tire smaller than 30mm. I was running a pair of moderately threaded 28mm, and had quite a bike handling work out on the many really soft sandy stretches at the bottom of the climb, and then again when the road gets rocky, rutty, and quite extremely pitchy as we stopped half-way up to have a look at Oak Grove TT to see if it would make a good alternative escape route from the top. For the record, it doesn't!

Rather than burning off as the day wore on, the cloud just sat on the road, wetting down the dirt.

A peek at Palomar High Point Lookout Tower.

We hiked the bike as much as we rode the last mile to the intersection with Palomar Divide TT (9SO7). My partner had road cycling cleats on, and the wet dirt was wreaking havoc on his ability to clip on and off his pedals. It was quite a lesson to me, as I had never used road clipless system (I went from riding flat pedals to mtb spd system). This proved to be quite problematic since his feet weren't secure on the pedals, and made riding pretty hazardous. With the lateness of our arrival to the Palomar HP saddle, we opted out of going up another mile and a bit to tag the actual top in order to start our descent as soon as possible.

The junction of Palomar Divide TT (9SO7) and High Point TT (8SO5).

Palomar Divide TT put up a lot of fight to slow our escape from Tahquitz's favorite bone grinder. The top part of the road is really rough and full of pebbles that made it almost impossible to stay on a good descending line. The decline is also interrupted by more than a few sudden uphill spikes that are both too loose and steep to ride up. Heck, there are even sandy stretches that preserve quite a few wild spoors - some more concerning than others. For a good couple of miles we found ourselves reverse-tracing footprints of a mountain lion and two cubs... It was enough to grow eyes out the back of our heads and almost hallucinating big cats peeking out from every boulder and bush along the road.

A mommy mountain lion and two cubs went uphill on this road not long ago.

Looking back at the white domes of Palomar Observatory.

We caught some fantastic views of Mendenhall Valley, San Jose del Valle, and Lake Henshaw on the descent (especially once we made it to the old pavement bit below the old Ware Mine. I'm afraid I had accidentally knocked the GoPro downward during the climb up Highpoint TT, and am left with pretty useless footage of a lot of dirt and rut and not much else. As I was counting on getting some good stills from the video, I didn't stop to take many photograph with my camera on our way down the rough road. I guess this calls for a redo ride on the other side of summer!

Looking over the ridge to Valle de San Jose and Lake Henshaw.

I must say, the old pavement on the lower 6 miles or so of Palomar Divide TT is really no picnic to ride as it isn't maintained and is quite chopped up in places and full of debris in others. It's still a big relief from the deep sand and rough pebbles of the upper section, however. I don't know if my road bike would have survived much more of the latter.

The oldly paved lower slope of Palomar Divide Truck Trail.

We somehow made it down to Hwy 79 in one piece (with one minor crash each, sort of as sacrifice to Tahquitz for having invaded his territory on such unsuitable manpowered machines. It was quite a long morning of rough-road riding in quite wetter weather than anticipated (no rain perse, but riding into a cloud that just sat still was still quite a soaking experience). Hopefully I'll get to challenge Tahquitz for a rematch soon... on a bit bigger tires and maybe a slightly bigger cassette, too.

Thanks very much to my riding pal Spinmotion for hanging in there with me both on and off the bike!